Ken, Sue, Stewart & Jessie's Eastern Canada Tour



New Brunswick to Nova Scotia Log

Day 47 Dalhousie New Brunswick to Bathurst 96.13km June 26/02 Wednesday

Awoke to the second sunny day in a row!! Up and off with the wind at our backs towards Eel River Crossing. As is usual there is a good uphill out of town, then the ups and downs were of lesser grades (10%) so very "dueable" as Ken says.

Eel River Crossing is a long streach on a sandbar apparently the longest very straight road on a sandbar... most straight we have seen for a while. The wind is at our backs so we were crusing most of the day on a paved shoulder with little traffic... especially no dump trucks! We are on the secondary 134. A lot of the towns on the map are not towns anymore... they do each have a post office (free standing building with a postal worker) some areas don't seem to have home delivery but boxes at the post office. We have very few views of the bay until after Belledune.

We discovered the smoke stack we saw across from Quebec was a power plant at Belledune. From the names (in the graveyards).... we stop often for brakes on the church steps.. this area was settled by the Scots, Irish, Acadian (1700's oldest stone). Suddenly each small town has a United Church (every 10km or so) some JW churchs and still Catholic churchs, but not so dominent in the towns. Seems much more rural once again between the towns... lots of trees, but not old growth... dense with ferns and underbrush.

From Petit-Rocher to Youghall Beach there was inhabitation and the road became very narrow and traffic increased...we were headed for the big city of Bathurst. We were really lucky to have a beach house stop tonight with Rita and Jim Hogan. What great people (parents of Colleen!) took us in just like family.

Now this is not a history lesson, but Jim gave us a tour of the area and I got this from what he told us: The Acadians were settlers from France in the 1700 who came to this area with no support from France. They relyed on the MicMacs to survive. They would not pledge allegance to England so they were deport to areas thru what is now the eastern shores of the USA and Louisiana. Some of them walked back to this area.. no concessions were made for families or possessions so some fathers ended up with someone elses wife and children. They were hearded into churchs and loaded into boats and this is when the families were split apart. Some hid out here in the woods to avoid being moved. This would be a very interesting time to read about. Some of the people were too far away to return so there are Acadian settlements still in the USA today.

Jim was raised in Bathurst and showed us areas where the buildings had been on stilts and now they have reclaimed land from the sea like in Vancouver on the shores. Bathurst is 17000 people and seems much bigger...no lack of shopping here. We went out to "the camp" which is their winter home on the Nepisiguit River... hardly a camp... a gorgeous log home right on a salmon river seems like your miles from anywhere, but really part of town. Jim works on a production for the discovery channel "Construction " Will have to check it out.

96.13 km M 46.5 A 17.4 T 5h 29 min TD 2531.53 km

Jim and Rita Hogan at the Beach house
Potato barn
Farm house
United Church
The swimmer hits the beach
The Camp home

Day 48 Youghall Beach Bathurst Stop Over 0 km June 27/02 Wednesday

Well they said it would rain and it is. Still nice to be at the beach... inside the Hogans Beach house. Very humid and warm. Great just to wile away the day.

Ken gave us girls a real break and went and did the wash and the shopping. We had a great supper of scalloped potatos and veggie burgers! Ken hasn't been able to get his quota of burgers as they don't serve them so far anywhere. The sun came out and I had a great afternoon laying in the sun trying to even out this terrible tan. We will pack and be off in the morning... calling for more rain, but hoping not.

We are well rested and repacking for another interesting province.

0 km M A T h min TD 2531.53 km

Not really only 0, but Ken has no odometer.... guess what he gets from Santa... one with an altimeter View from Jim and Rita Hogan's Beach house
Acadian Trail signage



Day 49 Youghall Beach Bathurst to Black River Bridge 107.68 km June 28/02 Friday

Left Rita and Jims by 7am. Bathurst is larger than we thought. We decided to go straight down to Miramichi as time is a little short, so took off on Hwy 134 (secondary, but dotted with homes, no towns) 25C with hazy. Basically thru the forest this route. By the way must drop Jim a note and let him know there is more than "one hill". Gradual climb from Bathurst out to Allardville which has no services, then down to Hwy 8. We had a light wind in our faces, so might have seemed a little hillier. 2 large hills on 8. The bridge was being resurfaced in Miramichi, but we were allowed to cross on the side walk, lucky as it was a 30k detour. We crossed the bridge just ahead of a wicked storm..hid out in a restaurant while it pelted down rain... bikes under cover due to Kens quick thinking! After piging out we headed off to the campground at Black River Bridge. Very nice "farmer" and his wife who have made their home into a B&B with camping and small cabins.

107.68 km M 53.7 A17.2 T 6h 18 min TD 2639.21 km

One of many tiny grocery stores on our excurtion
Storm brewing over Douglas town (Miramichi)
Bridge to Chatham: only cyclist may cross at present


Day 50 Black River Bridge to Point Sapin 61.16 km June 29/02 Saturday

Really weird road surface out of camp to hwy 117 "Goudron (tar with rocks peppered on top) ok, not too rough first 5km. Lots of towns on the map, but no services until Baie Sainte Anne. Few views, mostly thru the trees. Lots of "bog" here... peat moss farming once more. Lobster traps coming out for the season (May/June)... really smelly. Now we know who is a fisherman as the boats and traps are in their yards all neatly arranged until next time. I wonder what they do for the rest of the year?

Very rough road in spots, little to no traffic. Finished early... sunny 25C. finally layed in the sun in the afternoon to see if we could tan anything more than arms and knees. Supper huge salad and cheese scones... yummy. We have met our only second ignorant person in 6 weeks. We were all set up since 1430 with our tents and a fellow with a campervan came and informed us we were in his site.... the girl had made a mistake, and he wanted that site!!! We moved kit and cabotal.. later he took his van to go up to the bathroom... not the energetic type, but he didn't seem to mind making us break camp and resetup 10 sites down.... oh well it takes all kinds. I hope he's not going our way.

61.16 km M 35.1 A 16.9 T3h 36 min TD 2700.37 km

Lobster traps coming out
Lunch stop along the way
Lobster boat and traps stored for next season


Day 51 Point Sapin to Saint Edouard de Kent 73.9 km June 30/02 Sunday

Happy Birthday to Dagny and Happy Anniversary to Jim and Diana. We thought many happy thoughts all day.... reminicing of camping days together.

Well New Brunswick is not impressive so far.... bush and more bush... nice bush, very thick undergrowth... not with the pinkish tone that Quebec has...must be less of the maple trees. Left by 9 thru Kouchibouguac Park...no sea views, no bears either. Right inside north boundary "squatters" protesting the park or something. Two cemetaries, one very old so must have been towns here at some time. Horse flies are chasing us today. It was very warm... 38C at one point at Sainte-Anne-de-Kent (5km inland). Nice to camp at the shore even if it is Coney Island. Dropped 10C coming down to the shore. Clouded over so no chance to even out our neat tans. We were lucky to have no trouble finding camping as tomorrow is Canada Day...sites filling up fast. Very nice lady running this campsite... boiled water for us to make our soup. Note to remember... don't leave the stove at home... it really limits the meal options and I thought we would just eat out more, but my picky diet and their food habits just don't seem to jive. Pretty easy day considering the heat, hills moderate, road surface really bad, but little traffic (no trucks)

73.9 km M 40.7 A 17.3 T4h 15 min TD 2774.27 km

Flowers coming out
Statue at Kouchibouguac Park
Bush
Saint Edouard de Kent beach
Us on the beach

Day 52 Saint Edouard de Kent to Neptune Motel Shediac 53.99km July 1/02 Monday

CANADA DAY!!

Lots of Canada Day flags on homes, (Canadian, Acadian and New Brunswick) Stopped in Bouctouche at a museum of a Catholic girls residential school. Very interesting... got the impression the girls were very happy there... it opened in 1880's-1967. The young guide was very good for her second day. One interesting thing was the girls were not allowed to touch the banister or wall when going up the steep stairs for 4 levels... no wonder the rails weren't worn. The Nuns were very strick, but there was a reunion in the 80's which was very well attended which shows they must have liked it. Also the chapel was really neat... it was very ornate and had lots of statues and stensiling on the walls... at one time the nuns decided the girls were not listening to the Fathers so they painted the entire chapel white! They have restored it except for some pillars which they are trying to remove the paint on, but there is stensiled ivy underneath they are trying not to remove. Well worth a visit if you go this way.

Rainy day. Not much for views.... NB has lots of trees different than Quebecs forest... less evergreens and more disiduous (leafy ones!!) Not cold in the rain, but drizzling most of the day. Decided to find a motel... B&B Stopped at the info in Shediac where we were hoping to spend the day at the beach tomorrow. Really raining hard to Neptune Motel where we were accepted with openess... no concern whatsoever for how wet we were. We were very lucky they had a suit with 2 bedrooms, BR and livingroom...perfect for our chinese laundry and 3 wet velos! Stuff in the bags dry... but I haven't perfected how to put up a tent in the pouring rain and keep it dry inside. Wouldn't you know it by midafternoon the sky blued and hot sun appeared. We walked down to the Canada Day celebrations but all were tired... couldn't stay for the fireworks. Very neat town...a resort town like Kelowna with huge beachs on the ocean.... but large campgrounds full of trailers like Coney Island.... and traffic constant on the one main drag. We were happy it's not a weekend as they have a drive-in theatre right behind the motel! I don't think I read lips that well!

53.99 km M37.3 A17.2 T 3h 7 min TD 2828.26 km

Hiding from the rain on the church steps
Girls School now a museum
Fires not burned for Canada Day (fire regulation)



Day 53 Sheiac Stop-Over 21.53 km July 2/02 Tuesday

We enjoyed the day in town transfered to a campsite on Parlee Beach... lazy day with lots of sun.

21.53 km M 27.1 A12.2 T 1 h 45 min TD 2849.79 km

What a babe... see the bikers tan?
Parlee Beach campground: Tents and more tents!
Parlee Beach people


Day 54 Sheiac to Moncton 54.26km July 3/02 Wednesday

Woke up to clear skys... no rush to leave as just a short way to Moncton. Heated up early 38C with very high humidity (radio says 48C humidex just like we factor in windchill) All I know is it isn't cold anymore!! Drinking water by the gallons!

Really lucky I spoke to the guard at the campground exit about the airport as we found a map error for Guy to fix... location of the Moncton Airport is not as on the map... Would have been a large detour on a hot day... very easy to get to the airport... sat inside and reviewed all the options as to campgrounds close enough for Stewart to get to ... especially if his bike doesn't arrive in one piece. Road into Moncton and we decided to check out a B&B we got a chit for in Shediac.... no one home! Had lunch in the yard while a thunder storm brewed.... tried to call but no answer..... kind of funny fellow at the Funeral Home across the street... offered to give us a place, Ken and he joked about the rooms only being 2x2x6! Funny what the heat will do to your mood. We persevered and reached Linda (owner) at the beach on her cell.... goody.. she has rooms and the key is... where else but in the mailbox.... this is a small town... we left our gear and headed back up hill to the airport... really nice to ride without all the weight... flight 1 hour late, but Stew arrived intact with all his gear. Another similarity to home we like is that as soon as the sun goes down the temperature drops dramatically! Well to a tolerable level.... 20C.

Very nice B&B with a living room area for guests which makes the stay so much nicer... the owner is very friendly and helpful. We went out to eat at a Mexican spot that was very good. The sidewalk patio was a little noisy as the past time is to "prowl" down main street several times in your car or motorbike. Moncton is a really nice looking city. Modern downtown with brick sidewalks with lots of flowers and trees. Very clean what we have seen so far. And the drivers are the opposite of Quebec... they stop for bikes!! and pedestrians!!

Well now we are a party of 4!

54.26 km M 38.8 A16.2 T 3h 19 min TD 2904.05 km

Shediac Bakery
Downtown B&B Moncton NB
Fourth traveller arrives


Day 55 Moncton to Hopewell Cape 41.75km +7.05km to Hopewell Rocks July 4/02 Thursday

Up early to warm and humid day. overcast with a haze. Linda made us a huge breakfast of baked beans, veggie omlets, toast, juice and coffee... how do I tell these B&B's that fruit is a great breakfast!

If you go to Moncton DOWNTOWN B&B Linda Glencross 506 855-7108 lglenx@nbnet.nb.ca is a great place to stay.... large rooms, very reasonable rates (in NB the rates are set by the province $69 for doubles) It is a old (1900) rock home which has been redone and is really clean and even gives you free internet usage! Linda gets 5* from us! I think I met Arthur Corbett's twin in Moncton he is a cycling RCMP!... even talks like him... and no I wasn't getting a speeding ticket... just asking directions

Headed off down hwy 114 hills up and down more than we have had for a while... small towns once again are without a store to speak of just little corner markets with not a lot of food. The temp crawled up to 30C + and a Bakery appeared ! After a fresh sticky bun and coffee for those who need to stunt their growth we were off once more. Stewart didn't get an easy start ... hot, humid, hills.... did okay. He said if the hills didn't get him, the sun would. Ended the day at Hopewell Cape so we could go out to the Hopewell Rocks which are like "hoodoos" but caused by the rise and fall of the tide. This is the highest tide change of anywhere in the world. 43 feet. Neat place to visit.

I think we sweated off more than a gallon of water from all orifaces.

48.8 km M 48.1 (51.1) A15 T 2h 46 min TD 2952.85 km

Four travelers
Lunch stop
Hopewell Rocks
Us under the Love arch
Lupins at Hillsborough

Day 56 Hopewell Cape to Fundy National Park 44.69km July 5/02 Friday

Surprise... about 9pm a thunder storm started with bolt lightening going on most of the night. I didn't get much sleep as I was worried about being hit by a falling tree... Ken got lots of sleep, he just cuddled into his covers and woke up every now and then. By morning we had no drips in the tent!! Must have been a good seal job in Quebec! Jessie and Stewarts new tent: Marmot 2 man... had the occasional drip which will need to be sealed.

Overcast, with misty fog right to the ground. Dried our tent in the laundry area.... we were not wet like some motorcycle fellows who had 6 inches of water in the tent floor. We headed off a little late and after a couple of hills, my chain got stuck when using low gear... appeared like the low sproket was bent in catching the chain... decisions, decisions... after asking at a convienience store for a bike shop (closest back in Moncton) I decided to limp on. Did get several people who suggested a fellow in Riverside-Albert (Arnold Moressey) who might be able to fix it. We toured a Bank of New Brunswick (1905) Really nice digs upstairs for the bank manager. Covered bridges are all along this route, no longer on the main road.

When we arrived at Moressey's Grocerie, Arnold was out on Ambulance duty. We ate lunch and when he arrived he accessed we should just pry it further apart.... he got a 911 call so off he went leaving Sarah in the lurch.... Ken was the surgeon and with brute force straightened it and I think it is working better than ever...Watch out where you lean your bike I guess that's how it happened yesterday when we were hiding from the rain under a abandoned tracker trailer truck.

We finally got to Alma.... the Two Wheeler Cafe is a great stop for all kinds of coffees and Smoothies! The grocerie choices along this route are very slim... Alma you cann't even buy an orange..... the Sticky Bun Bakery has... sticky buns, coleslaw and potato salad besides nice brown bread which made a great supper once more.

We ended the day at Fundy National Park Headquaters Campgound. Nice big sites with pesky squirels who wont stay away from our gear! Stewart survived day 2... no trouble we saw with keeping up.

Note: Ken thinks clothes pegs would be worth carrying. (wouldn't need if you didn't leave your towel out in the pouring rain!)

44.69 km M 43.7 A14.7 T 3h 01 min TD 3007.54 km

56days out with 32 in the tent! 20C today with a cool breaze and humidity 90%

Covered bridge
Neat Bridge
Old bank of NS


Day 57 Fundy National Park to Penobsquis NB 45.4km July 6/02 Saturday

Well Ken decided he would be first up today at just after 6am! We have a difficult day with lots of hills to come.

Well the first aide kit I've carried for forever came in handy this am as on leaving the campground Stewart took a minor tumble off his bike when his shoe wouldn't release from the strap. Skinned knee was the only injury. Very lucky indeed.

Well the hills did come in the first 5km we went up to 366meters. Really glad it wasn't too hot to start with. The black flies get up early early!! At the summit we met a group of 4 tourers, 2 gents (70 and 68) 2 ladies (55, ?67) They had an interesting story on how the group got together was thru an ad in a Adventure Cycling magazine with 2 guys looking for some people to cycle Canada with them... it is their 3rd year....2000 they did from Vancouver to Winnepeg, 2001 Winnepeg to Montreal and this year to Halifax. The 70 year old man was really loaded and was trucking on ahead of the others up a steep grade.... we have a few years to cycle yet. They were staying in motels. Really chatty bunch. They swear by gatoraide. They also leave at 5am and quit just after 1pm We continued on up and down moderate grades. No services on 114 until you reach a "homemade icecream shop" just before Penobsquis (the Raspberry is great!) and she let us sit inside away from the blackflies and eat our lunch bagels!

We reached camp early (1400) with threats of rain, but none really developed just dark clouds. First supper of Ichyban soup as that's about all they sold here in the convienence store to make without a stove (they provided the boiling water!)

Note: suggestion from other cyclist: use a motorcycle helmet stretchy fishnet like straping for over your back panniers to just tuck stuff under ie extra waterbottles/ jacket Also check out adventurecycling.org on the internet

45.6 km M49.7 A 14. T 3h 13 min TD 3053.14km temp 20C

Town of Alma by Fundy National Park
View down at the Bay of Fundy
Boys at the Summit out of Fundy Park
366m summit: That's a grunt!
Once more : ditch flowers

Day 58 Penobsquis NB to Saint John 92.11 km July 7/02 Sunday

Well we were all up early once more with threat of rain.... packed up and were off. Found out what the oder was at the campground.... they have a pulp mill in Penobsquis.... we were down wind. Another campground just past the mill might have been better. Campsite still gets a 4*

Stewart's legs look like he has the measles. Barely a spot without a bite! I'm taking an ASA each night which seems to keep the itch down. Kept on 114 (River Valley Scenic Drive) thru to Sussex. It is Sunday and no grocerie stores are open, not even Canadian Tire. The Irving station had fruit and Tim Hortons coffee for Ken so we had a good breakfast. One thing about camping... the campgrounds seem to be out of town instead of municipal (like last year) so we are away from the shops. Sussex looks like a neat place to visit with lots of interesting looking shops...another time. gorgeous flower boxes and in the yards more flowers... must be better soil? or weather? The road is rolling past acreages and farms... cows and sheep... and fields of ?hay and corn that finally looks like it might be harvested this year. 20C not so so humid, but rain trying to materialize all day.

Outside Hampton was a great market where we had lunch... bakery, plants, concession... popular place with the locals also.

Just as we were trying to outrun the rain a fellow stopped from the Telgraph newspaper. He took our picture and thought I'm sure we were an oddity. Oh well if we sell papers. Maybe we will inspire someone else. Still cann't say enough about the courtisy of the NB drivers. They stop to let us enter roads and slow right down to pass us. I'm not sure if that's to look at us, or to give us room. Road improves to having a shoulder by Hampton.

Destionation Saint John Rock Wood Park Campground reached thru a drizzle of rain. Camp setup really quickly then it cleared to a nice evening. Taxi into the Harbour area... which was a closed up... it's Sunday. We will go back in the am... great supper at Grannas as "seafood" spot which makes a good spinach salad! Oh and Stewart had the Blackened Creol Salmon which was good.

We will spend tomorrow in town as the ferry is only twice a day 0900 and 1645 which we might made

Note: German Ivy is a great fast growing plant to put in baskets See it in the Quebec picture.

92.11 km M50 A16.3 T 5h 38min TD 3145.25 km

Lay of the land
Large farm homes
Lots of flowers
Cute scare crow
More ditch flowers
Along the road

Day 59 Saint John to Digby Nova Scotia 16.26 km July 8/02 Monday

Up to a gorgeous blue sky day! Now this is more like it.... the weather really tweaks your mood when your out in the elements all day long.

Campground gets a 5* especially the staff. Biked the short distance to downtown to the Old City market.... oldest in Canada. Really nice veggies, but not much local stuff yet... strawberries are just started and I'm sure they are done in Kelowna. We were able to go to the library and get emails. The newspaper fellow had contacted us, but we never did connect. The coast guard is right downtown, so we left our bikes chained up to their fence under the watchful eye of their security guard. He told us that by next year the coast guard presence in Saint John's will be gone.

We took the walking tour of the old buildings... most interesting was a strip of town houses built right after the fire of 1877 which leveled a good deal of this town. These homes are still inhabited and look much like infills of today. The ones built 10years ago beside them aren't as nice, but are of course in better shape. Saint John is much different than I expected... industrial. Pulp mills and docks right at the down town as this is where the sea is and they had to have acess to get logs and supplies in and other stuff out.

We took the ferry to Digby after a great lunch at a outlet in the market that makes you a salad like subway makes your sandwich.....The Wild carrot cafe..... you pick the toppings and pay by what you choose... great idea! The ferry is very expensive... 3hrs so double VIctorias.... $20 per bike, $35 per person, It is not as big or nice as the BC ferries, only runs 3 times per day... midnight, one am (09) one pm (1645) which we took to Digby Campground which surprisingly is not up up from sea level. The camp had cute shelters of some kind of breathable landscape cloth, but we were able to camp tonight.

Great day in an area steeped in history.... will try to find some info.

16.26 km +75km by ferry M 33.8 A 11.2 T1h 26 min TD 3161.51 km

Clock in Saint John
Saint John United Church NB (First United Church in Canada)
Three sisters lamp
100 year old row housing in Saint John